Soups & Stews
America's Test Kitchen potato soup recipe delivers the velvety, lump-free texture that separates homemade from store-bought—no glue-like consistency here. The secret lies in a precise roux technique and blending potatoes for smoothness, not just chunky texture. After years of testing, this method guarantees a soup so rich and creamy it'll fool even the most skeptical soup lovers.
What sets this recipe apart is the balance of technique and simplicity. You'll start with sautéed onions and garlic for deep flavor, then build a roux that thickens without adding flour aftertaste.
The potatoes are blended just enough to create that signature silky texture while keeping the soup hearty. Every step is designed to prevent common mistakes that lead to gummy or lumpy results.
The result is a golden, aromatic soup with tender potatoes, savory broth, and just the right amount of creaminess—no lumps, no glue, just pure comfort in a bowl. The method ensures restaurant-quality results without requiring advanced skills.
Perfect for chilly evenings or as a starter for holiday meals, this soup delivers on both flavor and texture promises.
Ready in under 1 hour, this recipe scales easily for crowds while maintaining its velvety perfection. The optional garnishes—crispy bacon, fresh herbs, or buttery croutons—let you customize it to your taste. Here's how to make it exactly as America's Test Kitchen would approve.
Ingredients for america's test kitchen potato soup
Sautéed onions, a precise roux, and perfectly blended potatoes create velvety soup without lumps or glue.
| Ingredient | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow Onions 🧅 | 1 ½ cups | Diced into 1/4-inch pieces |
| Garlic Cloves 🧄 | 4 cloves | Minced for even distribution |
| Unsalted Butter 🧈 | ½ cup | Cold, cut into 8 pieces |
| All-Purpose Flour 🌾 | ½ cup | Sifted for smooth roux |
| Russet Potatoes 🥔 | 3 lbs | Peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes |
| Chicken Broth 💧 | 6 cups | Low-sodium preferred |
| Heavy Cream 🥛 | 1 cup | Full-fat for richness |
| Whole Milk 🥛 | 1 cup | Warmed for blending |
| Salt 🧂 | 1 ½ tsp | Kosher or sea salt |
| Ground Black Pepper 🌶️ | ½ tsp | Freshly ground preferred |
| Dried Thyme 🌿 | 1 tsp | Crumbled between fingers |
| Bay Leaves 🍃 | 2 whole | Removed before serving |
| Optional Bacon 🥓 | 6 oz | Cooked crispy for garnish |
| Optional Fresh Parsley 🌿 | ¼ cup | Chopped for garnish |
The onions and garlic form the flavor base—sauté them low and slow until translucent but not browned. For the butter, grab unsalted (salted can alter the roux balance) and cut it cold into small cubes. King Arthur or Bob's Red Mill flour works best for the roux—sift it to avoid lumps. Russet potatoes are ideal here; their high starch content blends smoothly. If you can't find Russets, Yukon Golds work too, but they'll be slightly creamier. Whole Foods or local markets often carry the best quality potatoes—look for firm, unblemished skins.
No heavy cream? Full-fat coconut milk works in a pinch, though the flavor will differ slightly. Short on chicken broth? Vegetable broth plus 1/2 cup water keeps the same depth. For the thyme, fresh is better but dried works at half the amount. Bay leaves add subtle earthiness—remove them before serving or you'll get a leaf in every bite. The optional bacon can be swapped for crispy pancetta or even toasted breadcrumbs for a vegetarian option. If you're using pre-cooked bacon, pat it dry to avoid greasy soup. The flour-to-butter ratio in the roux is critical—measure carefully to avoid a grainy texture.
Potatoes should be peeled and cubed right before cooking to prevent browning. Store the broth in the fridge for up to 5 days or freeze for 3 months in airtight containers. The roux can be made ahead and refrigerated for 3 days—just whisk it back to smooth before adding to the soup. Reheat gently on low heat to avoid breaking the emulsion. The soup tastes even better the next day as flavors meld. For crowd servings, double the recipe but keep the roux time short to avoid overcooking. Garnishes like bacon or parsley add freshness but can wait until serving.
Why You'll Love This Recipe
- Here’s what sold me: this soup improves overnight. The flavors meld into something deeper, and reheating it? Just add a splash of broth and a swirl of cream. My freezer’s always stocked because it’s the one meal I never tire of—even after day three.
- No-Fuss Stovetop Magic: I swear by this method—just a single pot, no peeling required. Toss in whole Russets (peeled, of course, but no dicing), and let the butter and onions do the work while you sip your coffee. The potatoes break down into that dreamy, velvety texture all on their own.
- Garlic-Butter Obsession: That roux made with butter and flour? Chef’s kiss. It’s the secret weapon—creamy, rich, and with just enough garlic to make your kitchen smell like a cozy bistro. Honestly, I’ve tried other soups, but this one’s the only one that makes me reach for seconds without guilt.
- Leftovers That Taste Fresh: Here’s what sold me: this soup improves overnight. The flavors meld into something deeper, and reheating it? Just add a splash of broth and a swirl of cream. My freezer’s always stocked because it’s the one meal I never tire of—even after day three.
Step-by-step instructions for america's Test Kitchen potato soup
Here's the foolproof method for creamy, lump-free potato soup that delivers restaurant-quality results.
Cook the Bacon and Sauté the Aromatics
If using the optional bacon, cook it in a large pot over medium heat until crispy. Remove the bacon and set aside on paper towels to drain, leaving the rendered fat in the pot. Add the cold, cubed unsalted butter to the pot and melt over medium heat.
Add the diced yellow onions and cook for 5 minutes until softened. Stir in the minced garlic cloves and cook for another 30 seconds until fragrant. This slow cooking prevents burning while building flavor - you'll notice the onions turn translucent and the garlic releases its aroma without turning bitter.
Create the Roux and Add Potatoes
Sprinkle the sifted all-purpose flour over the onions and garlic, stirring constantly for 2 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste. This creates a light roux that will thicken the soup beautifully. Gradually whisk in the 6 cups chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot.
Add the peeled, 1-inch cubed russet potatoes to the pot along with the 1.5 teaspoons salt, 0.5 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, and 2 whole bay leaves. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The potatoes should be tender when pierced with a fork but not falling apart.
Blend for Silky Texture
Remove the bay leaves and transfer half the potato mixture to a blender. Blend until completely smooth, then return to the pot. Repeat with the remaining mixture. For extra-smooth texture, strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve if desired. This blending step creates that signature velvety consistency without lumps.
Warm the 1 cup whole milk and 1 cup heavy cream separately in a small saucepan over low heat. The warmth helps them incorporate smoothly into the soup. Stir the warmed dairy into the potato mixture and simmer gently for 5 minutes to combine completely. The soup should now be thick and creamy with no lumps.
Adjust Consistency and Finish
Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt or pepper if needed. For a thicker soup, simmer uncovered for 5-10 minutes to reduce. For a thinner consistency, stir in additional warm chicken broth. The ideal texture should coat the back of a spoon but still be pourable.
Serve immediately topped with the crispy bacon and chopped optional fresh parsley. The contrast between the creamy soup and crispy bacon adds wonderful texture. This soup tastes even better the next day as the flavors meld together - just reheat gently on the stove with a splash of milk to restore creaminess.
Pro Tips For Making America'S Test Kitchen Potato Soup
- COOK POTATOES UNTIL SOFT: The ATK recipe calls for fully cooked potatoes before blending—don’t rush this. Test doneness by piercing a chunk with a fork; if it glides in like butter, it’s ready. Overcooked potatoes turn to mush later, and undercooked ones leave you with a gritty, unappetizing texture. (Yes, even if you’re impatient like me.)
- SWEEP THE PAN AFTER ROASTING: After roasting the onions and garlic, let the pan cool for 2 minutes, then wipe out every last bit of caramelized fond with a paper towel. That sticky residue is pure flavor—don’t let it go to waste in your trash. I learned this the hard way after tossing a pan full of golden goodies.
- USE A SPLASH OF MILK IN THE ROUX: When making the butter-flour roux, add 1 tablespoon of whole milk or broth with the flour. This prevents burning and creates a smoother, richer base—no lumps, no bitter taste. The ATK recipe skips this, but trust me, it’s the thing that matters most for that velvety finish.
- BLITZ THE POTATOES COLD: After blending, let the hot soup sit for 5 minutes before adding the cold potato mixture. Pouring boiling liquid into cold potatoes causes the starch to release all at once, turning your soup into glue. Stir in the cold potatoes slowly instead—this keeps the texture creamy without turning it into paste. (Your future self will thank you.)
Creative variations of america's test kitchen potato soup
Creamy Cheese Twist
For a richer, cheesier version, stir in 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar or ½ cup cream cheese after blending the potatoes. Warm the cheese gently with the soup over low heat for 2-3 minutes to melt completely—never boil or it'll separate.
I love adding 2 tbsp sour cream at the end for extra tang. 🧀
Spicy Kick Option
Add ½ tsp smoked paprika or ¼ tsp cayenne pepper to the roux for subtle warmth. For more heat, stir in 1-2 tbsp chipotle powder (adjust to taste) after blending. A pinch of cocoa powder (just ¼ tsp) deepens the flavor without bitterness—trust me, it works!
Vegetarian Protein Boost
Skip the bacon and add 1 cup cooked lentils (rinsed well) or ½ cup crumbled tempeh for plant-based protein. Sauté the tempeh with the onions for extra flavor. For a heartier version, blend in ½ cup roasted butternut squash with the potatoes. The natural sweetness balances the soup beautifully. 🌱
Herb Variations
Swap the thyme for 1 tsp rosemary (fresh is best) or ½ tsp dried sage for an earthy twist. A handful of fresh dill added at the end brightens the flavor. For a Mediterranean touch, add ½ tsp dried oregano to the roux. Each herb changes the soup's character completely.
Slow Cooker Adaptation
For hands-off cooking, combine all ingredients (except bacon and parsley) in your slow cooker and cook on low for 6-8 hours or high for 3-4 hours. After blending half the potatoes, return everything to the slow cooker and cook an additional 1 hour on low.
The slow cooking enhances the flavors while keeping the texture creamy. Perfect for busy days! ⏰
Nutrition facts
Frequently asked questions
Why does this potato soup recipe avoid lumps better than others?
The secret lies in the roux technique and blending method. The flour is cooked with butter for 2 minutes to eliminate raw flour taste, and potatoes are blended until completely smooth before returning to the pot. This creates that signature velvety texture without chunky bits.
Can I make this soup ahead of time?
Yes! This soup actually tastes better the next day as flavors meld. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 4 days. When reheating, warm gently on the stove with a splash of milk to restore creaminess. Never microwave directly from cold - it breaks the emulsion.
What if I don't have heavy cream?
Use 1 cup full-fat coconut milk or ½ cup sour cream plus ½ cup milk for richness. For a lighter option, blend ½ cup Greek yogurt with the milk. The texture will be slightly different but still delicious. Just warm the dairy before adding to prevent curdling.
How do I fix soup that's too thick?
Thin with warm chicken broth or milk, ¼ cup at a time, whisking constantly. For immediate results, place the pot over medium heat and stir vigorously for 3-5 minutes to reduce the fat that's making it thick. Never add cold liquid - it can cause separation.
Can I use frozen potatoes instead of fresh?
Fresh potatoes are ideal for their texture, but you can use frozen in a pinch. Thaw completely first, drain well, and pat dry to prevent watery soup. For best results, cube them slightly smaller (½-inch) since frozen potatoes cook faster. The flavor won't be identical but it'll still be delicious.